Carcassonne (Aude)

A FATAL SIEGE
In the form of an immense crown on a rocky spur, the splendid town walls dominate the plains. It is the greatest Medieval complex in Europe classified as a site of International Heritage by UNESCO.
The first site dates back to the 6th century B.C, when it was occupied by a populace coming from the nearby oppidum of Carasac, from which the town’s name is derived. It was the Romans who built the first fortified walls, most of which still remain today.
It was conquered by the Visigoths in the 5th century, and subsequently by the Muslims of Spain in 725, who were expelled from France a few decades later. It was transferred to the Counts of Barcellona and then granted in fiefdom to the Trencavel family, and became the capital of their Viscount lands in 1082. Carcassonne experienced a great period of prosperity until 1209, when it came under the attack of the Northern Barons. Inspired by the Crusade against the Albegisians, on the orders of Pope Innocent III, the army under Simone di Monfort, firstly attacked Béziers were it massacred much of its population and then laid siege to Carcassone. The town, to which the country dwellers also fled, lacked water and therefore only resisted for two weeks: on 15th August the young viscount Raymond-Roger Trencavel came out in order to negotiate with the Crusaders but he was captured and imprisoned in his own castle, where he died a little later. Simone di Monfort then became the Viscount of Carcassonne, and followed the Crusade which became a personal war of conquest.
It came under the hands of the King of France in 1226, and became the focal point of the defence system created at the frontier with the reign of Aragon, a second defensive wall was then added to the exiting one.
Its role as a fortress ceased with the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659, in which the frontier was shifted southwards.The stronghold was allowed to fall into ruin and was only restored to its former splendour in the 19th century thanks to the efforts of Prosper Merimee and the clever architect Viollet Le Duc.

A FAIRYTALE STRONGHOLD
The internal town wall built by the Romans, was renovated between 1280 and 1300. It extended for a length of 1,1000 m, and comprised 26 towers, some of which dating back to the 3th century. The external walling, built between 1240 and 1260, measured 1500 m in length, comprising 16 towers and an imposing example of Medieval military artistic style coming from Northern France. The two orders of bastions are separated by a grassy area called “les lices”, which can be covered on foot, the last of reduced size in the event of further defence, measured 75 metres by 40, comprising six circular towers. It was renovated in 1226 and was also reinforced in order to integrate it with the second fortified wall.
Inside the wall, the town is less homogenous than the military buildings. However there are numerous houses of Medieval style (especially along the Rue Trencavel), as well as certain ancient wells, and beautiful streets which open out onto to cool and elegant squares.
The cathedral of St. Nazaire:
The building is in two parts that are clearly different to each other. The Romanesque nave with its rounded barrel vault being all that remains of the cathedral, which was blessed in 1096, by Urbane II, the Pope of the First Crusade.The chancel and the transept are in Gothic style and also feature a series of splendid windows, amongst the finest in Southern France.
There are also some interesting tomb stones such as the cenotaph of Simone of Monfort.
The Low Town
Located on the other bank of the river and also called the “Bastide Saint Louis”, as it was built on the will of Louis IX of France (who became a saint). The king ordered that the town suburbs be burnt to the ground in order to punish the inhabitants for having supported the return of his son Ryamond-Roger Trencavel, in the last revolt attempt in 1240. After being expelled by Saint Louis, the population was authorized to return seven years later, on the condition that they build a new town beyond the river with two large churches (St. Michel and St. Vincent) worthy examples of Southern Gothic style. The “bastide” soon became and industrious and bourgeois town (under the Consoles until 1248), as opposed to the Stronghold which was monarchic and clerical.
During the course of the centuries, the upper town declined gradually, while the lower town became richer thanks to industry and commerce, right up to the 19th century which was the golden century of the vine. A host of elaborate and elegant town buildings still testify to this prosperity.

THE SHADOW OF TRENCAVEL
Should the sorrowful soul of Raimond-Roger Trencavel ever decide to return to the stronghold and its high walls and winding streets, he certainly would not choose the summer months in which the colours and bustle and noise of the tourists is reminiscent of false memories and commercial spirit.The memory of the young and heroic lord of Carcassonne, who defended his subjects, but who was betrayed and then left to die in a cell of his own palace, still lives on in the silence. If you wish to meet him, take the ancient route, in the Autumn in the setting sun and the humming wind, or when it is lit up by a creamy moonlight: He may then stop to speak to you for a moment and tell of his useless courage and of the desperation of his people, thrown out into the countryside with nothing, in order to satisfy the avarice of the conquerors. He will tell you about the desperate attempt by his son, who returned in arms twenty years later, to try and again expel the usurpers, which was all futile. Nothing remaining of the proud Trencavel line. Only the whisper of a distant memory, in the maze of roads, or in the bastions, unsuccessful in defending liberty.
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